Sir Paul Smith, who describes his style as "classic with a twist", is British fashion royalty.
He is a man who not only styled menswear, but created it.
Sir Paul Smith has been a valuable figure in the haberdashery business for 39 years. Due to an accident that destroyed his teenage cycling ambitions, Smith had to change tack and turned to the colourful world of fashion.
He started to take evening classes for tailoring in his hometown of Nottingham, feeding his desire to create something extraordinary. Smith’s young sweetheart, Pauline Denyer, who later became his wife, was a fashion graduate and encouraged him to become a fashion entrepreneur. He called her “my key to the world of fashion.”
The menswear maverick was knighted in November 2000 awarded as he was for service to British fashion. Beginning in 1970 with a little shop in Nottingham, he enchanted British dandies with his menswear for nine years, before opening a boutique in London. By 1987, his clothing was fascinating Fifth Avenue.
The reason I've been successful is because I've just got on and packed boxes and I know that VAT means Value Added Tax not vodka and tonic
Smith on succeeding as a businessman as well as designer
Smith says, "The reason I've been successful is because I've just got on and packed boxes and I know that VAT means Value Added Tax not vodka and tonic."
The entrepreneur’s first catwalk collection was revealed to the public in Paris, set against a reggae soundtrack; creating something fresh that boasted British style. Within 20 years of manufacturing clothes, Smith has established himself as a pre-eminent British designer.
Paul Smith tapped into the 90s zeitgeist which combines grey, classic-cut outerwear with vibrant, floral shirts bursting beneath; a familiar Englishness augmented by the bizarre and unexpected.
He describes his sartorial approach thusly: “I take ingredients from upper-class tailoring, hand-made suits and so on, and bring them together with something silly.” It’s this ‘something silly’ that gives Smith his own trademark style.
Above all, Smith has a marked work ethic, and he says “the reason I've been successful is because I've just got on and packed boxes and I know that VAT means Value Added Tax not vodka and tonic.” His passionate involvement on the business side, as well as the designing, has pushed the fashion house to its full potential.
Launching his first perfume in June 2000, followed by ‘Extreme’ aftershave, Paul Smith continues to scent his style. In 2002 he collaborated with Cappellini to craft the ‘Mondo’ collection of furniture; and in 2003 he designed upholstery textile brand ‘Bespoke,’ constantly showing how expansion has contributed to his success.
The Paul Smith brand has expanded in the last 18 months in multiple directions.
Smith coincidently returned to a favourite hobby and began working with US-based cycle clothing retailer Rapha. He designed a range of cycle clothing, including a full suit with vents allowing the cyclist to reach the handlebars and incorporated extendible sleeves.
Smith has also been an active writer for Vogue fashion blog in which he eagerly notes his inspiration of today. High-profile expansion in 2009 saw the Manchester United team tailored in suits provided by the designer, proving Paul Smith is a continued favourite in fashion.
There are many lessons to learn from Smith’s story; foremost, his attitude towards business and involvement in every aspect of his trade results in Paul Smith Limited retaining a rare personal touch. Paul Smith continues to be a vital part of the company as both designer and chairman.
As his wholesale business expands and more shops open in Asia, the US and Europe, Smith continues to diversify into everything, from textiles to perfume and watches to womenswear. Prospective cloth cutters can learn from Smith as a designer; he has stuck to his original principles and his products are timeless.
